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Portrait

How it all began...
Nicolas Hojac, Schweizer Bergsteiger, Alpinist, Extrembergsteiger, Speedbergsteiger, Profi Bergsteiger, Professioneller Bergsteiger
I was born on July 13, 1992, in Bern. I spent my childhood in Niederscherli, quite a distance from the mountains. At the age of four, I discovered ice hockey, which was the best school of life for me. You learn to be a team player, to dish it out, but more importantly: to take it, and that you have to fight to achieve your goals. I devoted a full 13 years to this passion before I was finally drawn to the mountains. A new passion had taken hold of me, and the prospect of adventure ignited a fire within me. Alongside mountaineering, I completed an apprenticeship as an automation technician and studied mechanical engineering.
I first started mountaineering during a language study trip to Val de Ferret. Instead of learning French, I discovered a love for the mountains. At first, I only went on easy alpine tours, but later I added sport climbing, ice climbing, and bouldering to my repertoire. At age 15, I joined the Swiss Alpine Club, where I learned all the skills involved in rope handling, climbing techniques, and more. This provided me with a solid foundation on which to build my own skills independently.
Nicolas Hojac, Schweizer Bergsteiger, Alpinist, Extrembergsteiger, Speedbergsteiger, Profi Bergsteiger, Professioneller Bergsteiger
Nicolas Hojac, Schweizer Bergsteiger, Alpinist, Extrembergsteiger, Speedbergsteiger, Profi Bergsteiger, Professioneller Bergsteiger
I was lucky enough to often be out and about with friends who were a bit older and more experienced, which allowed me to make rapid progress and gain a wealth of valuable experience in a short time. My drive has always come from my own motivation. I was extremely curious and really soaked up everything new.
At the age of 18, I climbed the Eiger North Face for the first time, and soon after that, I tackled the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses North Face. To date, I have climbed the Eiger North Face more than ten times and, together with Ueli Steck, hold the team speed record (3 hours 46 minutes). I am always on the lookout for a new challenge, for a new project. What started as a pure passion has become a career.
Nicolas Hojac, Ueli Steck, Bergsteiger, Eiger, Eigernordwand, Nordwand, Alpinisten
Right now, I'm particularly interested in the world's remote mountain ranges, such as the Karakoram, the Tien Shan, or the unexplored regions of Patagonia. I try to go where others have failed or where no one has even thought to go...
Nicolas Hojac, Schweizer Bergsteiger, Alpinist, Extrembergsteiger, Speedbergsteiger, Profi Bergsteiger, Professioneller Bergsteiger, Patagonien, Cerro Largo

Key moments

2025

  • The North Face Trilogy of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau in 15.5 hours
  • From home (Spiez) on foot to the summit of Eiger (via various peaks, 65 km, 6,200 m elevation gain)

2024

  • Bernese Panorama in a single push (65km, 7,000 m elevation gain, 11 peaks in 37 hours)
  • Ascent of “Shalbachum,” 6,700 m, Nepal, followed by a paraglide flight from 6,300 m
  • Ascent of the north face of “Ganchempo,” 6,387 m, Nepal

2023

  • “Schreck Marathon” from Grindelwald to the Grimsel (42 km, 4,200 m elevation gain, 7 peaks in 18 hours 52 minutes)

 

2022

  • Swiss Skyline (Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau) speed ascent in 13 hours and 8 minutes
  • Expedition to India, attempt on the Shivling South Face

2021​

  • Speed ascent of the three ridges and three north faces of the “Drei Zinnen”
  • Film project “The Soloist - VR” with Alex Honnold
  • Expedition to India, attempt on the south face of Shivling

2020​

  • “Spaghetti Tour”: 18 x 4,000-meter peaks, from Monte Rosa Hut to Klein Matterhorn in 13 hours 39 minutes
  • Sport climbing routes up to 8c

​2019​

  • Expedition to Patagonia
  • First ascent of the east face of Cerro Cachet, “homenaje a los amigos perdidos,” M7+
  • Climbed first 8c

2018

  • From the lowest point in Switzerland to the highest and back down to the valley in 14h 2min
  • Traverse of the Niesen Ridge in 12h 18min

2017

  • First ascent in Norway, “Surf & Turf,” 350m AI4, M6
  • First ascent in Norway, Finnkona, “An Other Day in Paradise,” AI5, M6, 400m
  • Petit Dru North Face “Alain-Leninger”
  • Scheidegg Wetterhorn, Pargätzi Pillar, Integral
  • Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger in a single day, paragliding from valley to valley in 11h 43min
  • Expedition to Pakistan, attempt on the North Ridge of K7
  • Ascent of “Sulu Peak,” Pakistan, 6000m

2016

  • Expedition to China with the SAC expedition team
  • First ascent of “Deadmen Peak,” China, 5,400 m
  • First ascent of “Red Ball Peak,” China, 4,922 m
  • Attempt of “Xuelian Feng West,” China, 6,300 m
  • Jungfrau North Face, first ascent of “Eis am Stiel” M5+, 550m

2015

  • Eiger North Face, Heckmair, speed record for a rope team with Ueli Steck (3h 46min)
  • Eiger North Face, Metanoia-Japanese combination
  • Wendenstöcke, “Ben Hur,” 7c+, 350m, redpoint
  • Breitwangfluh, Flying Circus, M10, flash onsight
  • Started paragliding

2014

  • Member of the SAC Expedition Team
  • Launch of the TV show “Hoch Hinaus” on Swiss Television
  • Verdon, “Dame Cookie,” 8a+, 180m redpoint
  • Grandes Jorasses North Face, Croz

2013

  • Grandes Jorasses, Colton-Macintyre
  • First 8b+ climbed​

2012

  • Third ascent of Paciencia, Eiger North Face
  • First 8b climbed

2011

  • Eiger North Face, Heckmair
  • Matterhorn North Face, Schmid
  • Mönch Lauper Route, solo

2010

  • First repeat of the route “Into the Wild,” 7b+, 450m, Scheidegg Wetterhorn
  • Mönch Lauper Route
  • First 8a climbed

2009

  • First 7c climbed
  • Started ice climbing

2008

  • Dent Blanche, Switzerland’s most difficult standard route
  • First 7a climbed

2007

  • Member of the Swiss Alpine Club
  • First mountaineering camp with the JO

2006

  • Lagginhorn South Ridge, first 4,000-meter peak

2004

  • Aiguille du Tour, first mountaineering experience
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